Eggplant Gratin with Provençal Tomato Jam

The Fearsome Purple Egg Sauced with the Flavors of the Mediterranean

© Larry Ervin

Oct 25, 2009

Moslems spread eggplant to North Africa and Moors brought it to Spain when they drove back the Vandal-Goth-Visigoths hordes. Many of the Moors settled on both sides of the Pyrenees and Southern France’s eggplant is one of the ingredients that shows that Moorish and Spanish influence.

Northern Europe Suspicious of the Asian Fruit

Many Europeans feared this member of the nightshade family. Superstitions variously accused eggplant of causing fever, epilepsy, leprosy, insanity and even death. King Louis XIV, however, delighted in surprising his court with exotic foods and ordered aubergine grown in the royal garden. Nevertheless, it would be another two centuries before eggplant was widely accepted.

In Provençal Cuisine

The tomatoes (another nightshade) as well as orange and olive oil mark this recipe as Provençal.

Eggplant Gratin with Provençal Tomato “Jam” Recipe

Yield: 6 servings

You will need: 6 individual gratin dishes (optional)

Tomato “Jam” Ingredients:

• 1 ounce, bacon, diced (about 1/3 cup)
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 small carrot, chopped
• 1 rib celery, chopped
• 28 ounce can whole plum tomatoes, drained
• Zest of one medium orange, chopped
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• ¼ cup basil leaves, slivered

Tomato “Jam” Method:

1. In a large saucepan over medium flame, cook the bacon gently in with one Tbsp olive oil until the bacon begins to brown, 5-7 minutes.
2. Add the aromatics, the onion, garlic, carrot and celery and sweat them down, stirring occasionally, until they are soft, but not brown, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the tomatoes and orange zest and turn the flame up to medium high. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquids have nearly evaporated and the sauce is thick and nearly like a jam, about 15 minutes.
4. Remove the pan from the heat. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. Stir in the slivered basil and set aside.

NOTE: The recipe can be made to this point up to a full day ahead and the sauce covered and refrigerated until you’re ready to finish cooking.

Eggplant Ingredients:

• 1 medium eggplant (about 1½ pounds) (see About Buying and Storing Eggplant, below)
• ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Eggplant Gratin Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F.
2. Cut a thin slice off both ends of the eggplant and discard. Slice the eggplant evenly into ½ inch slices. You should have six slices.
3. Lightly oil a baking sheet large enough to accommodate all the eggplant. Arrange the eggplant slices on the baking sheet and use a pastry brush to lightly paint the tops with a bit more olive oil. (Go easy on the oil; eggplant will famously absorb as much as there is.) Roast the eggplant until they nicely browned, but still creamy on the inside, about 20 minutes. Set aside.
4. Preheat the broiler.
5. Spread an even layer of about half of the “jam” in the bottom of 6 gratin dishes, if using. Top each with an eggplant slice. Top with the rest of the jam and a sprinkle of cheese. (Alternatively, leave the eggplant on the baking sheet and top each with a heaping tablespoon of the jam and a sprinkle of the cheese.)
6. Broil just until the cheese melts and the jam bubbles. Serve hot.

Vegetarian Option

This recipe adapts easily for vegetarians by eliminating the bacon and adding another tablespoon of olive oil to the “jam.”

About Buying and Storing Eggplant

Select eggplants that are firm to the touch, with a smooth and shiny skin and feel heavy for their size. Avoid any with brown or soft spots or have a dull color. Store in a cool dry place. Use the eggplant preferably within 2 days. If necessary, the eggplant may be kept in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for as long as 5 days. NOTE: Don’t store eggplants near tomatoes or apples as they give off a gas that accelerates the ripening process.

Need a Year of Provençal Cuisine?

Go here for more Southern French recipes, including:

• French Onion Soup
• White Beans Provence
• Vegetarian Tapendade
• Provencal Beef and Tomato Pie
• Swordfish Provencal
• Seared Scallops in a Pernod-Tarragon Cream Sauce
• Olive Tapenade
• Fresh Basil Aioli
• Tarragon Poached Salmon Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette
• Fresh Tuna Salade Nicoise
• Rustic Chicken Liver Pate with Pistachios

Ripe Tomato on the Vine

Oranges Show Spanish-African Influence

Garlic

Yellow Onions

Aubergine (Eggplant) in the Market

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